Last Thursday, D and I caught a complimentary sneak peek of Kenneth Lyon’s soon-to-open New England-themed restaurant: The Cape Cod Room. Somewhat hidden inside The Bath Club — a private club along Collins Avenue built in the 1920s — the restaurant channels Lyon’s earlier days and the start of his career as a chef in Cape Cod.
The dining room’s decor takes cues from the seaside, with light ocean blue furniture and sand-colored walls. Black and white photos of sailboats line the restaurant’s main wall. It is elegant but not stuffy. Service was professional and the staff was knowledgeable about the food, which Lyon labels as East Coast Americana comfort food.
Pan-fried crab cake with mustard sauce and micro greens salad
The preview menu on Thursday night was substantial but less comprehensive than what the menu will look like come opening night Nov. 4. The latter will include about 40 items.
Appetizers are broken down into soups and salads, chilled fish and shellfish, and warm shellfish. Mains are broken down into fish and shellfish, and meat and poultry. A ‘Plates for Two’ section changes each night. For $20 per person on Wednesdays, for instance, you can share a turkey dinner, or on Fridays, two whole Maine lobsters, steamers, potatoes and corn for $45 per person. The wine list, which was still being finalized the night we visited, will mostly feature wines from New York but some European wines will also be included.
Provencetown seafood stew
Our meal started off with a plate of bread and corn sticks. I happily ignored the bread after I took a bite of one of those sticks. The savory corn bread is slightly crispy on the outside, moist on the inside. It had a subtle hint of spiciness that I truly enjoyed, which Lyon says comes from a touch of cayenne in their recipe.
We then ordered the following: Cape Cod Quahog chowder ($8) and pan-fried crab cake with mustard sauce ($18) to start, followed by the pan-caramelized New Bedford scallops with succotash ($24) and the Provencetown seafood stew ($40) — – Maine lobster, mussels, clams, scallops and codfish in saffron-scented broth of leeks, fennel, tomatoes, garlic and herbs. To finish, our server brought us lemon curd with shortbread ($8) and Indian pudding ($8).
Pan-caramelized scallops with succotash
Overall, the food was straightforward and unpretentious; classic dishes to which Lyon has added a personal touch either in preparation or presentation. And while it’s early to judge, based on this first experience I’m looking forward to trying more.
Indian pudding. The Cape Cod Room’s take on a 1700s American classic that tastes of Thanksgiving.
Check, please. Saltwater taffy.
The Cape Cod Room will open for dinner Wed.-Sat. from 6 to 10 p.m. starting Nov. 4. Bar opens at 5 p.m. Brunch will be served on Sundays from 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. Complimentary valet parking.
The Cape Cod Room
5937 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach